Between the golden leaves of autumn and the smell of humid earth, Toledo reveals a different profile far from the monumentality of its capital: that of the small towns that keep traditions, flavors and landscapes alive. It is in these enclaves where the transition of colors and landscapes is experienced when the chestnut trees They color the slopes and the squares are filled with the unmistakable aroma of roasted chestnuts. There, under the shadow of gentle mountains, this region hides secrets that invite you to get lost without haste, especially when the harvest season of this emblematic autumn fruit arrives.
In a privileged corner of the Sierra de San Vicente, is located The Real de San Vicenteone of the great natural treasures of Toledo for lovers of nature and chestnut harvesting. This town, surrounded by humid slopes and dry cold, treasures more than 600 hectares of chestnut treesthe majority in the hands of neighbors who each campaign collect around 700 tons of this fruit. The chestnut tree, whose thorny “hedgehog” guards the precious seed, becomes a true symbol of autumn, supporting the local economy and marking the vital calendar of the region.
The surroundings not only dazzle with the abundance of chestnut trees; here they also sprout oaks, holm oaks and a rich fauna, where the presence of the iberian imperial eaglea protected species whose flight crosses these untamed skies. Trails and routes cross the forest mass, giving each step landscapes of a biodiversity that is uncommon in Castilla-La Mancha. The climate – cool, humid and protective – guarantees the health and strength of the chestnut trees, whose harvests provide life and work to the area.
Collecting chestnuts in The Real de San Vicente It has its own regulations. Most chestnut trees are private and fenced estatesso entering them without authorization is prohibited. In public areas, collection is regulated and managed by the city council. However, to support the trade and enjoy the local fruit, just go to the local producers and stores, where hospitality and knowledge of the product are an essential part of the experience.
Likewise, during the month of November, El Real de San Vicente celebrates one of its most anticipated moments: “The Luminaries”a popular festival in which large bonfires are lit in the square and chestnuts are roasted for neighbors and visitors in a warm, bustling gathering full of the flavor of shared tradition. In turn, the neighboring municipality of Navamorcuende reinforces the celebration of autumn with the “Chestnut Sample”, an event that brings together guided routes, tastings and competitions, and makes the Sierra de San Vicente a meeting point for families, hikers and lovers of the flavors of the land.
But beyond its chestnut tradition, El Real de San Vicente also has a extensive historical and monumental heritage. Its name recalls the royal camp installed by Alfonso VIII in 1187, with an eye toward the defense of Talavera or Toledo against the Almohads, although local stories place the first settlement in the time of Alfonso VI.
In 1631 he obtained the privilege of township and the independence of Bayuela, which granted autonomy in the administration of its assets and the appointment of mayors. Vestiges of this autonomy and prosperity are still found in its most emblematic monuments. Of all of them, the imposing parish church of Saint Catherinedeclared an Asset of Cultural Interest, stands as a reference for local art and faith. Its interior, overflowing with religious carvings and baroque altarpieces, stands out for the presence of the Virgin of Sorrows, the work of the sculptor Luis Salvador Carmona.
They complete the route hermitage of San Nicasiorecent but located in a restored park, and the impressive Veneruelos fountain, with large ashlars and three mountain water pipes. Next to it, the traditional laundry and the Caños fountain speak of the daily customs of the town. Likewise, the nearby Carmelite convent of El Piélagobuilt in the 17th century, and the historic snow pitsattest to the spirituality and expertise in resource management in another time. All of this is complemented by the flour mills of La Tejea, an ethnographic vestige of the region, lined up next to the stream that accompanies the rhythm of nature and the work of man.
From Madridthe trip is around 1 hour and 25 minutes on the A-5 highway. For its part, since Toledo The journey has an estimated duration of 55 minutes on roads A-40 and A-5.
