The aroma of wet earth, oak, chestnut and acorn permeates the air of the pastures of Salamanca, Extremadura and Andalusia. It is a smell that is intertwined with tradition and, in this case, with the unbreakable strength of four women, two of whom are widows. who, after the loss of their husbands, decided to move forward and reinvent themselves embracing a family legacy and an ancestral profession: the breeding of acorn-fed Iberian pigs for the production of hams, shoulders and sausages of exceptional quality.
Their different stories united by perseverance and love for the land intersect with that of a young woman who puts science at the service of flavor and a ham slicer to weave an admirable story of improvement in a world dominated until today by men.
Carmen Hernández (Ibéricos Montellano): reborn among centuries-old oaks
After the devastating diagnosis of amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS) that he received her husbandManuel, Carmen Hernández made a moving decision. The illness, which for five years caused great suffering to her “dear” husband, who died two years ago, prompted her to dedicate part of her profits from his Iberian sausage factory in Salamanca to help others affected by such a cruel disease.
Carmen Hernández had abandoned her career as a Philosophy teacher almost 40 years ago to embark, together with her husband Manuel, on the adventure of create the Montellano sausage factory in Mozárbez (Salamanca). Today, Montellano is a recognized brand in the best restaurants and gourmet stores in Spain. that has even conquered exquisite international palates.
The meat from their Iberian pigs, rich in polyphenols, tocopherols and other antioxidants, is highly appreciated by Japanese gourmets, who compare its flavor with that of Wagyu beef, the most expensive meat in the world. Its expansion even reaches China through imports from Hong Kong.
With the financial support of their parents, the couple founded the company, which, despite being located in the Guijuelo Denomination of Origin, (Salamanca) gets your pigs mainly from Extremadura, the north of Seville and part of the Portuguese Alentejo. In the Family farm in Montegallardo, in the Salamanca mountains, Carmen currently raises 200 acorn-fed Iberian pigswho enjoy the montanera season in more than 300 hectares of pasture.
The loss of her husband forced her to face a major challenge: manage Ibéricos Montellano. Carmen, with admirable determination, wisely immersed herself alongside experts in the world of production and innovation, preserving the artisanal essence of her hams.
Their commitment to quality is unwavering, and is reflected in the meticulous selection of their pigs and in the long curing process of their hams and shoulders, following traditional methods that guarantee a unique product. “My husband taught me a lot and now it’s my turn to honor his legacy”says Carmen, while proudly observing her hams hanging in the cellarwhere time, allied with ancestral wisdom, works its magic. Carmen has not only maintained the tradition, but has enriched it with her personal touch, turning Ibéricos Montellano into a reference brand.
Carmen works side by side with her daughter Carmen Curto. “When the ranchers called to offer us their pigs, they didn’t want to talk to me, but to a man,” Curto recalls.
Chelo Gámez (Dehesa de los Monteros): athletic pigs in the Ronda mountain range
In a different environment but with the same passion for excellence, Chelo Gámez, known as the ‘professor of ham’, represents a new generation of women who are committed to innovation without giving up their roots. in his Malaga company Dehesa de los Monteros.
His story shares the same line of personal and professional improvement after the loss of her husband. Chelo, the first professor of Macroeconomics and Economic Theory at the University of Malaga, raises her pigs in the Ronda mountain range surrounded by holm oaks, cork oaks and gall oaks. “Now I’m Chelo, the one with the pigs and hams,” she jokes, proud of her “athletic haired pigs” that graze tirelessly in the 1,800 hectares of the pasture mountains of Malaga during two montaneras: the first based on chestnuts and the second, on acorns.
“When I got into this business they laughed at me“recalls Gámez, who is immersed in the recovery of the blonde strain of the Iberian pig together with the University of Córdoba. “It is a breed that has already roamed freely in the Ronda mountains since the 16th century, but it stopped being raised due to its low profitability because they are smaller animals that need to be in the field for at least three years,” explains this advocate for animal welfare and environmental sustainability.
Your effort, always with his daughter Chelo Simónhas been rewarded with growing success, projecting the image of Dehesa de los Monteros like a brand present in gourmet shops in Spain, in Michelin-starred restaurants and in the most recognized Southeast Asian markets..
Beatriz Blázquez (Jamón Blázquez): science at the service of flavor
In this panorama of exceptional women, we find the young Beatriz Blázquez, head of R&D at Jamones Blázquez. Although his story does not focus on overcoming the death of his partner, Its role is crucial in the innovation and improvement of the quality of Iberian products. Blazquez, fourth generation of the familyleads a Pioneering research in collaboration with the University of Salamanca that focuses on the study of the microbiota of ham during the four years of curinga key factor that defines the uniqueness of its products.
This research, which extends to three wineries (Guijuelo, Peñaranda de Bracamonte and Cresposthe latter with more than 90 years of history), places Hams Blázquez at the forefront of the sector.
What is the microbiota? It is the set of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, etc.) that inhabit a specific environment, crucial in biological processes and in the creation of the organoleptic characteristics of products such as Iberian ham.. At Jamones Blázquez, the microbiota of its wineries and natural drying rooms – non-acclimatized environments, dependent on weather conditions – has evolved for almost a century, creating a unique ecosystem. Millions of hams have contributed to developing a ‘Blázquez Microbiota‘, composed of specific fungi, yeasts and bacteria that give the product its unmatched aroma, flavor and texture.
The study, which uses advanced molecular techniques such as genomics and proteomics, periodically analyzes samples from the surface of the hams and from the winery environment. This detailed analysis allows the evolution of the microbiota to be tracked throughout the curing process to reveal the complexity of the microbial ecosystem and the keys to the uniqueness of this ham. The research covers the characterization of the microorganisms present in each stage, showing a dynamic and complex ecosystem. Beatriz Blazquez not only studies the final product, but the evolution of a living ecosystem throughout the entire manufacturing process, allowing Blázquez Hams master and optimize the production of one of the most precious hams in the world.
Stella Martínez: the queen of all parties
Stella Martinezfrom Granada, 36 years old, is a ham cutting masteran artist who transforms the precious piece into bites full of flavor. His career, started in 2007 in her ex-husband’s family delicatessenwas not an early vocation, but a fascinating adventure that captivated her. Far from contemplation and solitary cutting of the product, what he is most passionate about is the interaction with people: “When you are a ham cutter, you are always the protagonist of the saraos”he says with a smile.
His skill is reflected in his preference for the mace, the noblest part of the hamalthough he recognizes that the greatest challenge lies in the art of platingin the final presentation of each piece, especially when only the top of the ham remains. Her experience has led her to reach a surprising milestone: be part of the Guinness record for group ham cutting, with 239 cutters in Alhaurín de la Torre.
For those who aspire to follow in her footsteps, Stella offers clear advice: “Let him learn knife handling and get to know the world of Iberian perfectly.” A good ham holder, sharp knives and precise ham cutting are your essential tools to achieve perfect slices.: 3 centimeters wide, 5 centimeters long and moderate thickness. This perfectionism translates into the impressive number of 1200 hams cut per yeara testament to his mastery and the high demand for his art. Stella Martínez not only cuts ham, she creates experiencesto show that in every slice there is a story.
Are four women who provide a wise lesson: perseverance, passion and courage are essential ingredients for success in the business world and in life itself. Their hams, shoulders and sausages They represent the flavor of resistance, feminine strength and a tradition that is renewed thanks to their effort and dedication.
